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Contents; Basics; Doing it Right; Installation by Others; NXØI; PA3VOS; VK5ZEA; WN7T; W6KJA; AF8X; VE3EDY; K7PEH; VE6AB; KE7FYP; AF1S; KB0NLY; WW5AA; VK4TGV; AA4PB; KN6OT; KS4L; W5LLD; AC2RC; KE5FUL; KC2CYL; PA3DUV; KGØSH; KX7YT; N7PTM; N1DL; KG6WLS; K9FN; K9GPS; KC2ETG;
Safety and convenience are the requisite bywords of any mobile installation. Far too many amateurs get in too big of a hurry installing their mobile equipment. As a result, their wiring is haphazard and improperly fused; their transceiver mounting is inconvenient or mounted too near an SRS device, and thus very unsafe; and their choice of antennas and mounting schemes are suspect. My articles covering Wiring, Bonding, Noise abatement, and Antennas addresses some of these issues.
With a couple of exceptions, I had nothing to do with these installations. They are the product of the amateurs mentioned. Some use standard mounting brackets, others use home brew brackets, and all of them show a lot of inventiveness. They also show there isn't any one "correct" way to do an installation.
There is no warranty expressed or implied if you follow these examples, as no one has control over your installation except yourself. If you follow the suggestions in the aforementioned articles, take your time, and put some forethought into your requirements, your installation will be safe, convenient, and orderly as those shown.
Installing amateur radio gear shouldn't be a haphazard proposition, but for some amateurs it is. The use of Velcro®, double-sided sticky tape, suction cups, bungie cords, magnets, wedged in blocks of wood, and rubber bands are all prescriptions for disaster. Not one of us wants to be involved in a vehicle crash, but statically one in seven will be at sometime in their lives. A minor knowledge of high school physics is all it takes to understand what damage an unsecured remote head or handheld can do during a crash. My advice to you is simple; please take your time, and do your installation right the first time. The old adage is dead on (pun intended); If you don't take time to do it right the first time, how are you going to find time to do it over?
The same can be said for an antenna. Your antenna is the most important part of your installation. Here too, temporary mounts are not advantageous in any respect. If you want to know how to do antennas right, visit my Antenna article.
Wiring is important, Bonding is important, and so if forethought. A good plan, well executed, will result in good performance, a minimum of problems, and a maximum of enjoyment. Remember, the seven Ps* should be the only criteria!
Here's a little secret I've learned over the years. A lot of amateurs receive flak from the spouses about their amateur radio extravagances. The main reason is simply because of the haphazard methodology they're so used to seeing in other amateur-related venues around the house. I've learned that doing installations right is a mitigating factor in reducing flak from a spouse. When my wife first saw the installation of my new HiQ antenna, it wasn't flak I got. Her exact comment was, "It looks like it belongs. I'll bet it works as good as it looks." Indeed it does.
One important point I want to revisit is the use of home brew mounting brackets. Those you see here are a mixed bag in that some were made at home, and some were fabricated by a local machine shop or welding shop. However, the ideas behind them were from the fertile mind of an amateur radio operator. In other words, it makes little difference what you use, it's how you use it that counts.
The reasons these particular installations appear here is multi-faceted. They are well planned, the plans were well executed, and safe operating was a byword. If yours is extra clean, and the photos sharp, I'll give them due consideration. Three photos are enough, but make sure the radio (or head), and the antenna are shown clearly. Again, neatness and safe operability counts!
Jerry Fisher, NXØI, HiQ installation took several weeks to complete, and as you can see from the photos, taking your time to do an install has its benefits.
The antenna is a HiQ 5160RT, and the radio is an Icom IC-7000. Note the Better RF tuning unit mounted to radio's tuner port.
Not shown in this photo is the automatic controller module. Simply by pushing the tune button, the module switches to RTTY mode at about 25 watts. It drives the HiQ in the correct direction (even if it has been turned off), and when the SWR (it's read from the radio's CI-V port) dips below the preset threshold, the unit shuts off.
There are a lot more photos of Jerry's installation in the Photo Gallery.
Fokko Vos', PA3VOS, installation doesn't appear to be unique, but it is. The IC-7000 is mounted on a gooseneck mount, with the necessary antenna controller near by, and hangers for the microphone.
It isn't its neat appearance, or the excellent home brew mobile antenna mount, but rather what is not seen in the left photo. It's what's in the right photo.
Yes, that is a home brew Bluetooth, handsfree adapter. Fokko reports that is works very well, and the only problems he had to overcome were the unit's time out feature, and boosting the microphone audio level. He's in the process of writing an article for QST, so I won't give away any secrets. Suffice to say, it is a project for the technically competent. If you're not, perhaps you could look here. There are high res photos of his installation in the Photo Gallery.
Correctly done, no installation is simple, but when you add commercial radios, APRS, and other assorted hardware, it rapidly becomes a work in progress. Michael Carey's, VK5ZEA, Toyota Hilux (Tacoma) 4x4, is no exception.
There are several other photos of Michael's install in the Photo Gallery, and some of them were taken during the installation. What you see here and in the gallery are just a small portion of the final result.
The layout, wiring, and home brew mounting brackets are all neatly laid out. It is obvious that a lot of forethought went into the installation. If you visit his photo index (click on his name above), and peruse the folders therein, you'll be amazed at the work that went into the current look, right down to the powder-coated, interior-matching, paint job.
Current look may be a misnomer, as I bet Michael has a few more tricks up his sleeve like the home brew overhead console. By the way, the console contains an audio amplifier and summing circuit, thus only one speaker is used for all of the radios. There are photos of it in the gallery. Radios include an Icom IC-F7000, IC-2800H, IC-2010 (commercial UHF), Icom IC-400PRO (UHF CB), and a Motorola GM950plus APRS rig. A Codan 9350 autotune antenna is used for HF.
For those who think I'm compulsive about operating mobile, Paul Marbourg, WN7T, has me beat hands down. This is as clean an installation as you'll ever see, and the fact that most of the control hardware is home brewed adds a whole new aspect. I'm truly astonished at the quality of work that went into this project.
Paul's mobile is a 2006 Toyota Tacoma. The antenna is a HiQ 5-160RT with an extra long bottom section, a Metron amplifier, and an Icom IC-7000. There's even a Kenwood TM700A neatly tucked away among the other equipment.
Every item is properly mounted and secured. The wiring is first class, and the layout is well thought out. The attention to detail is very evident. Every piece of electronics is labeled with its wiring hookups, and I'd bet he has a master wiring schematic too!
These photos do not do justice to Paul's installation, so I've posted the high res ones in the Photo Gallery on the first page. This is truly an installation to die for, and my hat is off to Paul.
Mounting antennas on vans and SUVs is a difficult task, as Les Ettinger, W6JKA, can attest to. The antenna is a Tarheel 200, driven with an Icom IC-7000, with a Turbo Tuner handling the QSY duties.
The mount is custom made out of reinforced steel, and features a quick disconnect for the antenna, but leaves everything else in place, including the matching coil at the base. There are additional photos in the Photo Gallery, including the IC-7000 mounting scheme.
Dick Arnold, AF8X, made very good use of the cup holders in his yellow Mini, Maxi. It's an unobtrusive and safe installation, which are two attributes every mobile operator should strive for.
Having ridden in a friend's Mini, I can safely say it makes better use of the cup holders than using them for coffee or a soda. There are hi res images in the Photo Gallery.
Larry Parker, VE3EDY, manufactures a unique version of the screwdriver. He's shipped them all over the world, and if you want more information on it, visit his web site. The photo shows several different versions. That's the 160 meter model mounted on the rear of the van.
Larry uses a remotely mounted TS480HX, and you can find it tuned to 1892.5 kHz most of the time. Mobile operation on 160 is a challenge, and requires as high efficiency to do the job with any success. Part of the solution is a cap hat. There are other photos of the cap hat on his web side, and in the Photo Gallery.
The right photos are Phil Hystad's, (K7PEH) auto coupler installation. Phil took a lot of time to make his home brew enclosure, and his efforts are very evident in the photos.
Phil recently replaced the auto couple with a HiQ antenna. Phil undertook the new installation in the same manner as the old one; with good design, and a lot of patients. While not all of us have a machine shop set up in their garage, what you see here can be duplicated with a minimum of power tools. Phil's installations are some of the best you'll ever see, and they work as good as they look.
What you don't see is wiring running hither and yon, and what little there is, is properly covered with split loom. There are more photos of this excellent installation in the Photo Gallery, and on Phil's web site.
Jerry Clement, VE6AB, is a machinist by trade, and the work you see here is proof positive that he knows what he is doing. The foldover mechanism is cleverly designed, and like the rest of his installation, it's clean as a pin. This is what Jerry had to say in the e-mail that accompanied the photos.
I have included a few shots of my truck with radios and antennas. I purchased the 2004 F150 new and knew I would have to come up with a better idea when I looked at the dash. The radio tower is my own design and may be removed in less than one minute, leaving behind a 3 inch stub on the transmission hump. 6 gauge cables from the battery feed a fuse box behind the center seat. The radios are mounted under the seats. The 10 thru 40 bugcatcher and satellite antennas can be removed and placed in the truck in short order. The cross yagis have a coaxial switch for polarization and a rotator to track satellites.
I've posted high resolution photos of Jerry's installation in the Photo Gallery. There's even more on his web site, including his home station replete with a battery backup to die for.
Chris Perri, KE7FYP, has a cleaver home brew bracket for his FT857D. It's mounted to the underside of the center console, and it's hinged so he can turn the head his way when the wife is behind the wheel. One interesting point, Chris can control the radio while his arm is resting atop the console. This is a major consideration when traveling long distances, and one I have always tried to incorporate in my personal installations.
Although Chris used a bending brake from Harbor Freight to do the bending, a bench vise could be used as well. The hinge is actually a pop-rivet, but a small bolt would suffice. There are a few more photos of his installation in the Photo Gallery.
Bill Malumphy, AF1S, has cleverly utilized a securely fastened Craftmans tool box to hold all of his radio goodies. It's a little hard to see in the photo at left, but there is a Kenwood TS-480HX and a TMV-708A inside the box. There is also a RigRunner terminal block, a brushless boxer fan, and two Radio Shack amplified speakers mounted on top. As you can see in the right photo, it makes for a neat, theft-proof appearance any amateur would be proud to call his own. 
Scott Lichtsinn, 
The console and mounting plate was recycled from a highway patrol unit. The face plate holding the control heads and connections was patterned by Scott and fabricated by a local metal shop. The radios are locked onto mounting plates bolted to the wooden shelf unit shown. The entire unit is then secured to the floor of the vehicle. 
Lindy Lindermeier , WW5AA, uses a Yaesu FT857D (note the home brew mounting bracket in the left photo), a little Tarheel, and a Buxcom bracket for his holeless installation. PT Cruisers, and other van like vehicles, make it difficult to mount antennas if you're not into drilling holes. Buxcom's bracket makes the job a little easier. The requisite screw holes are out of sight too. All in all, it makes for a neat appearance. 
Peter's Land Rover is filled with radio gear including a Yaesu FT857 HF rig, a VHF transceiver, a UHF CB (FRS), a Codan 9323 commercial HF transceiver, and of course a GPS receiver. Two of the units are installed in a home brew box attached to the top of the dash.
Here Peter's Yaesu FT-40 auto coupler tucked under his specially made antenna. Trust me, the photos are not backwards. It's the way they drive down under.
In a recent thread on 
Above right is a picture of his IC-706MkIIg installation. The mount is an IIX model M100. It is mounted on a 1/4-inch thick aluminum plate which is bolted securely thorough the floor. Once he got the IIX mount base in the proper position, he had it welded so that it can't move. This is as clean an install as you will find, and again exemplifies the need to take your time!
Speaking of holes, here's a unique installation by Bill Johnson, KN6OT. As the photos on the left show, his coupler is mounted under the trunk lid. Pay particular attention to the output lead of the SGC coupler. It passes through a grommeted hole directly to the base of his antenna. Currently, Bill uses the coupler to impedance match his minimal monoband antenna, but future plans call for a bug catcher type antenna. The only short coming shown in these photos (which has since been corrected) is the extra-long ground lead. As suggested, he has added a second, shorter braid which is connected directly to the trunk lid. As I point out in my 
Randy Moore, KS4L, hasn't finished his Honda installation yet, but here is a preliminary photo. Note the mounting plate which is nestled behind and above the left real wheel of his Honda CRV.
When I upgraded to high power, I gave Lynn Drury, W5LLD, my AH-4. We installed it in his GM Metro along with a home brew antenna, and an old Master Mobile mount with integral spring. The mast is made of a 4 foot piece of 1/2 inch OD steel, with headless 3/8 x 24 bolts brazed into the ends (thanks to Marv, ADØY). The coil is from an old command set, and the whip is a shortened CB unit. The ground lead is very short. The lead to the ballmount is just 3 inches long. I don't know the resonant point of the antenna (Lynn finished it on his own), but he can load it on 75 and up. Some may scoff at the idea of using steel for the mast, but replacing it with a copper mast would yield very little
improvement.
Robert Cella uses an Icom IC- 706Mk2g (right photo). He made the mounting bracket from 1/8" HD polyethylene which is bolted to the control bezel of his Ford F150.
Jacob Red, KE5FUL installed his remote head using a home brew mounting bracket (see left photos). Note the bend in the sheet steel. When the panel trim is reinstalled, it firmly holds the bracket to the dash. The 22ga DIY sheet steel is neatly finished with Rustoleum paint, and a sheet of thin foam rubber. The flat white wire shown on the left of the head in the right photo is the remote cable to the radio, neatly tucked out of the way. 
Anthony Hardwick, KC2CYL has done an exceptional job of installing his Yaesu (right photos). As I mentioned in my 
RigRunner 4005. The main part of the radio is mounted on the back of the left rear passenger seat in his crew cab Toyota pickup; out of the way and safe. The black box under the 4005 is the remote sense for his Comet CMX-1 which monitors forward power, SWR, and DC voltage. As far as I know, this is the only designed-for-mobile meter that measures DC voltage. This is just what the doctor ordered for mobile operation.
I just had to show his NMO2/70 dual band VHF antenna installation. This is the correct way to do it, 3/4 inch hole and all, and right in the middle of the roof. As you can see in the photo, it had just rained. It is important to note that an NMO mount, when properly installed, is the only mount that doesn't leak even when the antenna is removed!
Here are two photos from Dick Knol who lives in the Netherlands. As you can see, I'm not the only one who runs high power mobile. That's a Henry SS750 hiding below the cover, along with two batteries, RigRunner distribution block, and a remote sensor for the SWR bridge. The SS750 requires about 60 amps average, and upwards of 110 amps peak, hence the two batteries. I wonder what most wives would say about taking up all of the cargo space in their van? The antenna is HiQ, as is the mount. Not that the antenna is spaced as far away from the body as possible. If you have to mount an antenna on the rear of a van, this is the way to do it. There are a three more photos of Dick's installation in the 
There are very few amateurs willing to partly disassemble their vehicle in order to install their mobile station. Bruce Thompson, KGØSH, is one of those few. He removed the front passenger seat, left quarter panel trim, the transmission cover, and a few other things on his Mercury Mountaineer. All of this to hide wires and cables, and mounting bolts to insure everything would stay in its place. As you can see by the left photo, his labors were worth the effort. His station is orderly, very functional, and above all safe. 
Bruce isn't your average amateur when it comes to antennas, either. He actually has a two element 
John Core, KK7YT, has done a marvelous job of installing his Icom IC-706 in his Ford Expedition. The head is neatly mounted on the center console (left photo), and the wires are tucked out of the way; safe, sane, and smart. The main part of the Icom is under the rear seat (right photo), securely fastened as it should be. 
There are several more photos of John's installation in the 
Bob Morrow, N7PTM, knows how to properly install an Icom IC-706 head. The bracket shown in the right photos was fabricated by a local metal shop from his cardboard prototype. Total cost including the powder-coated paint job was $35. That's an Am-Com screwdriver controller atop the Icom. As Bob says, mobile is mobile, and the Am-Com fully automates the band QSY function. He has recently replaced this vehicle with a new one. It's going to be interesting to see what he does with it. Patience is indeed a virtue, and it's evident.
Karl Geng's, N1DL, installation in his new 2006 H3 Hummer is first rate with a minimal amount of hole drilling. The HiQ antenna is mounted on a home brew bracket attached to the tow hook, and painted black to match its surroundings. The rear storage compartment holds the IC-706. Karl's waiting for his new IC-7000 before he details the wiring, but this is a good example of "out of sight, out of mind" installing. Note the clever use of drain covers for the ventilation fan inlet and outlet; ingenuity at its finest. This is a safe, neat, and orderly installation any amateur would be proud of. It pays to plan your work and work your plan like Karl has. It's a little hard to see in the left photo, but Karl uses a Turbo Tuner for hands-off band hopping. It pays to be safe!
The head is mounted at the end of the center console within fingertip reach. I might add this is a major consideration for any mobile installation. If you have to hold your arm out (not resting) to make adjusts on your radio, you might want to rethink its mounting position. 
Mike Brass has done kept safety in mind when he did his VHF install in his Ford F150 crew cab pickup. The goose neck mount is placed out of the way of SRS devices, yet is in easy reach. 
One important mounting technique not evident in the left photo, is the operator's arm can rest on the center console while tuning. This is not always possible in every installation, but from personal experience it makes mobile operation much easier. 
Also looking good, is the wiring. Mike's attention to detail is evident in the photo at left. Not the fuse holders are mounted close to the battery where they belong. He routed the wires beneath the center console where his distribution point is. I didn't have room for that photo, but it is as neat as what appears here. Hat's off to Mike and his excellent efforts.
One of the problems with just about every remotely tunes HF mobile antenna, is where and how to mount it. Since they are heavy and inordinately large, they require a very sturdy mount to hold them in place. This is not always an easy task. Dave Bunte met the criteria by having a custom made extension made for his trailer hitch. 
The antenna's good looks are complemented by the chrome plating on the bracket, evident in the photo at left. 
Lee Kissell's answer to not drilling holes, at least obvious ones, was to have a stainless steel bracket fabricated at a local metal shop. The Comet mount allows the ATAS120 to be removed when necessary. Note the ground strap around the hinges of the mount. Besides its obvious function, it also serves as a safety strap. As you can see in the right photo, the bracket makes for a very clean installation.
Sometimes you don't have a choice where you mount your antenna, as Kevin Olmstead, KC2ETG, has found out. While not the best location, Kevin's made the best of it by doing a first class installation. That's a HiQ 5/160RT with an ALS-500M driving it.