Antenna Controllers

The following section describes the correct methodology to minimize the level of RF present on the control leads of all remotely controlled HF mobile antennas. It is very important that you follow the recommendations, to the letter! If you do not, you're going to have RFI problems (intermittent and/or erratic operation) with any automatic controller you use, no matter who made it! This is especially true if you use a short, stubby antenna. And it's superlatively true, if you use an abbreviated mounting scheme (i.e.: mag mount, clip or lip mount).

Short, stubby, HF mobile antennas are very popular due to their diminutive size, light weight, and apparent ease of mounting (they're not necessarily less expensive). As a result, owners often resort to trunk lip mounts, luggage rack clamp mounts, and even mag mounts. All of these add to the overall losses, including the mini-sized coax (which is easily kinked) most of these mounts utilize. These losses are seldom noticed because owners have nothing to compare them to. If they can make contacts, especially DX ones, that's all they seem to care about.

Making matters worse, even when properly mounted, these abbreviated antennas have an excessive level of RFI flowing on their control leads, and typically on their coax cables too (common mode currents). This makes choking not only more difficult, but problematic as well.

None of the current batch of these antennas requires any impedance matching because their inherent resistive losses bring their input impedance close to 50 ohms. This means, the antennas are not DC grounded, and therefore tend to be much noisier than their big brother counterparts.

If you're intent on using one, keep the aforementioned potential problems in mind. You'll need to purchase additional split beads (RF chokes) to tame the common mode currents, and other maladies which will occur. This is especially important if you're using (or plan to use) an automatic controller.

Again, if you do not properly apply choking to the motor and/or reed switch leads, you're going to have intermittent and erratic operation, RFI ingress, and a whole lot of frustration.

The motors and counter (reed) switches of all remotely controlled antennas operate above RF ground potential. The amount of RF present on the leads depends on several factors, especially where and how the antenna is mounted. In any case, every single one of them require an adequate RF choke on these leads. Inadequate choking will destroy any type of automated remote control, and will cause an inordinate amount of RFI problems. Remember too, just because you didn't have any problems with your manual control, means nothing when it comes to computerized controllers.

The ferrite beads discussed below are indeed RF chokes. There is a complete explanation of how they work here. As noted, the amount of choking required varies with the installation, but it is always prudent to error on the excessive side. Just keep in mind, the poorer the mounting location (trunk lip mount for example), the more bypassing (higher choke impedance) is needed.

Most antenna manufacturers supply ferrite beads or toroids with their antennas for use as chokes. Unfortunately, a few are inadequate for the purpose because they are physically to small, and/or of the incorrect ferrite material (mix). What follows is a best foot forward approach, and will suffice for all currently manufactured controllers.

Separate beads should be used for the reed switch, and motor wires. Depending on the power level, the antenna type, and the mounting methodology, at least 8 turns, and preferably 10 or more, need to be wound.

The rule of thumb is, the choke should have an impedance of at least two magnitudes greater than the impedance of the circuit. In other words, at least 5k ohms, and perhaps 2 or 3 times this in some cases (i.e.: short, stubby antennas and/or poor mounting schemes). Mix 31 split beads are ideal for this application, but it takes 8 turns to equal 5k ohms. Thus, you'll need to use the 3/4 inch ID ones. If your antenna (or controller) didn't come with these specific split beads, they're available from DX Engineering. A package of five of the 3/4 inch ID units costs $25 plus shipping. Don't assume you can get by with a lessor number of turns, or a different ferrite mix. You can't!

The chokes must be installed outside the vehicle, and as near to the base of the antenna as possible. If you mount them inside, you will be plagued with RFI issues, including erratic controller operation. Remember, every thing before the choke is part of the antenna, and will radiate! What's more, if the RF can get out, it can get in too, and the interior of a vehicle is very RF noisy.

Choke The one shown at left is 13 turns wound on a 3/4 inch ID mix 31 split bead, and it's impedance is approximately 10k ohms at 10 MHz. When winding the chokes, do not overlap or twist the wires as this reduces the effectiveness of the choke. The wire shown is 18 gauge, stranded, Nylon^® insulated, security cable with the vinyl outer cover removed (Carol Cable Division, E10325.18.10 or equivalent). Solid conductor wire should never be used in a mobile scenario.

Digressing for a moment. Decent quality #18 stranded hookup wire, whether it is insulated with Nylon^®, or Teflon^®, will have an outer diameter of .068 inches. Cheap automotive wire is typically .108 to .115, and is too thick for this application. It really doesn't matter where you buy the wire, or what color it is, or what the insulation material is. As long as the OD is .068 to .070, it will work fine. You'll need about 60 inches of wire. If you're careful, and place the turns parallel to one another, you can get 13 turns. There should be three loops of wire on each face of the core (see left photo, double click to enlarge). Overlapping or twisting the turns will reduce the effectiveness of the choke, perhaps as much as 50%. If you need instructions on How To Wind A Choke, here it is.

If you're still plagued with RFI on the motor leads, and common mode currents on the coax, it is a sure sign you do not have an adequate ground plane under the antenna. While it sounds like a broken record, it is the mass directly under the antenna, not along side, that counts! In extreme cases of poor mounting, shielded cable, and liberal use of bypass capacitors (paralleled .1 uF and .01 uF ceramic caps) on the output side of the chokes may be required.

Digressing again. For some folks, it is difficult to understand why there is a need for chokes in the first place. The simple answer is in the first paragraph, but lets look a little deeper. Assuming the base of our antenna is properly matched and at resonance (50 ohms resistive), and the RF power is 100 watts, then the RF voltage at the base of the antenna will be 70 volts. However, the motor isn't mounted at the base, it's mounted up inside the antenna. How far depends on the antenna model. In any case, the minimum RF level will be the same as at the base. The further away from the base the motor is mounted, and the higher the ground losses are, the higher the RF voltage will be. It is not uncommon for the RF voltage to be as high as 250 volts, and in a couple of (known) cases, nearly 1,000 volts! That's high enough to zap any solid state controller!

Lastly, if you haven't already, read the Common Mode Current article. Remember too, all motor lead chokes, and common mode chokes, must be installed outside the vehicle! Again, if you mount them inside, you will have severe RFI issues, both ingress and egress!

Other Caveats

The average remotely-controlled HF antenna draws about 250 to 300 mils while running, and somewhat over 1 amp when stalled. There are exceptions, of course. One model draws 2.5 amps while running, and nearly 8 amps at stall! As a result, accessory sockets and data ports should not be used to power any load over the maximum specified by the manufacturer. For example, Icom specifies a maximum of one amp (total) for its various ports, as does Yaesu. Although these ports are fused, in most cases a circuit board trace or switching transistor will fail before the fuse blows, resulting in an expensive fix.

To avoid this possibility, it is good advice to use a RigRunner or similar device for the power feed to the controller, and any other ancillary device(s) in use. In most cases, the circuit should be protected with a fuse no larger than 3 amps. This protects the controller, and the antenna's motor from damage.

There is another equally important caveat to remember if you're thinking about upgrading from an Icom IC-706 to a new IC-7000. Most devices which work flawlessly with a 706, will damage a 7000 beyond repair! Here's why.

The 706, and the 7000 differ in the way their tuner port is configured. What works okay with the 706, may not work okay with the 7000. The reason is, a lot of the 706 devices place a resistor and a cap between Pins 2 (13.8 vdc) and Pin 3 (Start) as a time constant. Doing this on a 7000 causes the fan to run fast or slow depending on the value of the resistor. Further, Pin 1 (TKEY) is also shared internally with the temperature control circuitry, and must be left floating. If either condition exists, the fan may not operate correctly, which can lead to final failures!

To reiterate, non-computerized devices used to mimic the AH-4, and trick the IC-706 into transmitting 10 watts of carrier are not compatible with the IC-7000. This includes the suggested circuitry from SGC, at least three of the older model screwdriver controllers, and most small tuner modules.

The only US made ones known to work correctly are from Better RF and Turbo Tuner, and only those designed specifically for the IC-7000. Their respective older units made for the IC-706 model are not compatible! Please do yourself a favor; even if your old 706 unit appears to work correctly with your IC-7000, don't use it!

There is also an Australian made "tuner upper" designed by Owen Duffy, VK1OD, which is compatible. Like the aforementioned units, it controls the radio using the CI-V port, and uses a low-power setting (about 30 watts) utilizing the RTTY mode. All of these units are powered via the tuner port, and draw less than 100 mils.

Lastly, if you're using one of Bob Lewis' (AA4PB) Ham-Kit interfaces made before March of 2006, remove R1 (33k) entirely. This leaves Pin 1 (TKEY) of the tuner port floating which allows it to work with either radio.

Proper antenna impedance matching is a absolute prerequisite to using an SWR detecting controller. While this is covered well in my Antenna Coil Adjustment article, it bears repeating here. The use of UNUNs, switchable capacitance boxes, and autotransformers have their places, but if you're using an SWR detecting antenna controller, a fixed shunt coil is the only correct solution assuming you want true, automatic operation.

Shunt matching coils are easy to make, but require some setup time for best results. If you follow the instructions in the aforementioned article, and take your time adjusting the coil's spacing (inductance), you'll find a setting that will provide an adequately low SWR (<1.6:1) from 160 through 10meters. And do yourself a favor; buy an antenna analyzer. Nowadays, they're as important as SWR bridges were during the 50s, 60s, and 70s.

If you're using one of the shortened versions of the Tarheel (Lil Tarheel) or High Sierra (Sidekick), SWR matching is seldom necessary due to the additional resistive losses these antennas exhibit.

There are two basic scenarios used to automatically reposition the coil in all remotely tuned antennas. One, like the MFJ-1924 (Ameritron SDC-102) shown at right, is to keep track of the number of turns the adjustment shaft makes. This is accomplished by using a magnet attached to the motor output shaft to open and close a reed switch (almost all late-model, remotely controlled antennas have one built in). During set up, the antenna is parked at one end or the other. Then the resonant points are found (you have to do this yourself), they are stored in multiple memory locations. As long as power remains applied to the controller, a simple button push will move the antenna to a specific preset point. Some controllers, utilize the radio's data port (CI-V on an Icom for example), and reset the antenna to the nearest preset.

There are a few drawbacks to them. If power is lost to the controller, all of the memory positions go away. Obviously, you have to go through the set up process once again, so keep track of the readout numbers for each band location in case future reprogramming becomes necessary. This means you have to power the devices separately, not through the radio's accessory socket. Also, in cold climates, it is possible to draw enough starting current to lower the battery voltage down to a level which will cause some units to loose their memories.

Another basic problem with the MFJ units, is their sequential programming. In other words, to reset the position (frequency) on just one band, you have to go through all of the bands. Another good reason to write down the readout numbers.

Making matters worse, the MFJ SDC-103 (a sister product to the aforementioned) share a manual. The manual clearly states that all of the band memory positions are preset to on, when in fact they are preset to off! Once you get past the omissions and pigeon English, they work so-so. Their biggest drawback are the cheap push buttons. They tend to double up, making programming even more difficult.

A lot of folks end up using a manual controller like the Ameritron SDC-100. Just like its automatic stable mates, proper RF bypassing is a must. Even then, the SDC-100 seems to miscount more than it should. This fact requires parking the antenna and resetting the counter.

The term parking refers to collapsing the coil of a screwdriver antenna into the mast (highest frequency position). Depending on the brand and model of the controller, and the radio is it connected to, some park the antenna when the controller is switched off. This is not an ideal situation, as it adds wear and tear to the motor assembly.

Speaking of parking. MFJ has redesigned their MFJ-1924 (Ameritron SDC-102). It now automatically parks the antenna (assumedly when you turn off your radio). In their words; automatically bottoms your antenna for parking in your garage and resets and calibrates your counter each time to eliminate antenna slippage (?) and turns counter errors. This run-on sentence (statement) has a hidden factor. Aside from the wear and tear on the antenna's mechanicals, it's an admission that counting errors occur. These may be caused by improper choking of the control leads, or common mode current, and even poor controller design. If you're experiencing counter errors, the Home Brew Things article contains a simple circuit which minimizes counting errors. Incidentally, MFJ sells add-on reed switch kits for antennas which do not have them built in. About the only brand that doesn't is High Sierra.

The other method is to (automatically) detect the SWR like the Turbo Tuner does (right photo). Although different makes use different strategies, they all use the SWR information read from the radio's data port, or a separate SWR detector. Depending on the make, a push of the radio's tuner button (or one on the controller), causes the radio to transmit at a reduced power setting. The controller then powers the antenna's tuning motor. When the preset SWR limit is reached, the controller stops the transmission and shuts off the motor.

In some cases, the antenna motor will be going in the wrong direction. Once it hits its travel limit (and the stall current preset is adjusted correctly), it reverses and goes back the other way. If the SWR limit is set incorrectly (especially on 80 meters), it will cycle through its opposite travel limit. Some units have a built in limit for the number of cycles, but all of them can cause excessive motor wear if not setup correctly. That is to say, the SWR detection level, motor stall and operating current, and motor direction settings must be correct for your installation. I emphasize your, because variations in manufacturing tolerances, and the length and wire size used make each installation unique.

It is also important to follow the manufacturers' instructions when setting the SWR detection parameters (see below). Of the 50 or so installations I have critiqued over the last four years or so, this is one of the most common problems. Some of the others are, improperly setting the motor stall current parameter, not reading between the lines in the manual (this may be facetious, but it's factual), and very poor wiring practices (both RF and DC). Remember, it pays to take time to do the job correctly the first time around, as rework is always more expensive, and it is always the most exasperating of duties.

Incidentally, the Turbo Tuner draws its power from the radio. If you have a low-power antenna, you might (?) get by. However, as their manual points out, it should be powered directly if you're using a full-sized antenna like a Scorpion.

There's a new SWR detecting controller designed to mate perfectly to the Icom IC-7000. Made by the BetterRF Company, it's based around their tune control (right photo). It has some very unique features, placing it on top of the pile.

Foremost is the fact it remembers where it was before you decided to QSY, even if it's to another band! Therefore, the motor always goes in the correct direction which reduces wear and tear. Further, it uses the SWR data from the radio so it doesn't need an external detector. When required, it uses PCM (pulse-code modulation) to slow the motor down. This reduces overshoot, and allows for a very precise stopping point. It even rechecks the SWR before shutting down, just in case there was overshoot. All of the settings are accomplished using the IC-7000's front panel controls. In other words, there are no jumpers to set. The only manual setting, is moving a jumper inside the tuner module so it knows the antenna controller is attached. This takes about 3 minutes.

Other features include, a infinitely variable SWR detection level (preset is 1.5:1) for each band, automatic motor run and stall current detection. In addition, there are two unique features.

One is a built-in bypass relay which disables the amplifier (if one is used) during the tune function. The other is a little more esoteric. The internal relays which provide power to the antenna motor, ground both of the motor leads once the antenna is tuned. This minimizes the egress of RF into the control wiring, and provides dynamic braking.

No antenna modifications are necessary, and it will work with all remotely controlled HF mobile antennas, drawing less than 4.5 amps at stall. The interconnect between the two units is a mini-stereo cable. The only addition is a 3 amp fused circuit for the DC power cable which powers just the antenna's motor. All cables are included. You can down load the installation manual here.

The BetterRF controller (and others) communicates with the IC-7000 via the CI-V port, and follows Icom's recommended protocol. This is why the address is set to 70h, and the baud rate to Auto. When the controller wakes up the 7000, it does so using 70h at 9,600 baud. It receives data from the IC-7000 using address EEh. Once the antenna is tuned, all of the 7000's previous menu settings (mode, power level, etc.) are restored, all previous settings are restored.

When software programs which share the CI-V port do not use the Icom recommended protocol, compatibility problems often arise. Mail programs, and linking software often hog the CI-V port to improve performance. If you use such programs, make sure they follow Icom's recommended CI-V protocol.